Making a bodycon dress…freestyle

When I look at fabrics, I can turn them into a garment with my eyes. Where most people see a tablecloth or a sheet, I envision the finished product. When I saw this knit fabric, my first thought was to make a high neck, bodycon style dress. The colors evoked fall and the scroll-like roses gave a Parisian vibe. The fabric is 60 inches wide so I knew two yards would be plenty. I didn’t have a sewing pattern, but I had a turtleneck top that I used as my guide.

I traced the outline of a slightly fitted top and added 20 inches to make the dress about mid-calf length. The neckline and sleeves have a cinched look that’s achieved by stitching short rows of 1/4 inch wide elastic on either side.

I added a 5/8 inch seam allowance as I cut around the collar, bodice and sleeves. I also cut one side longer, on the front piece, to give a cinched effect on the left side. Always test the thread tension on your machines to save yourself some heartache from puckered seams.

Since this is a pull-on dress with no aid of a zipper or buttons, you’ll need to use a stretch stitch to construct it. Working with stretch fabrics require sewing with a stretch stitch on your sewing machine or using a serger. I used my serger to construct the dress. I started with a stretch overlock for the inside and then changed the settings to Coverstitch for the hem.

I finished the dress in an evening and a morning. It’s probably a few hours project, if you go straight through it. A good portion of my time was spent testing small swatches on my serger to get the correct tension. Overall, I’m pleased with the outcome and making this has re-ignited my passion for coming up with my own designs.

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